Born from the idea that beautiful skin can be achieved by anyone, regardless of their budget, this guide to acids in skincare is perfect for beauty enthusiasts of all levels of experience.

Whether you’re a complete novice when it comes to acids, or you’re already incorporating them into your routine, we’ve got everything you need to know about AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs. So, what are these mysterious ingredients, and why should you be using them? Keep reading to find out!

What are acids?

Acid is primarily used for skin cleansing and exfoliating. There are two types of dietary acids in the beauty industry: Alpha hydroxy acid (AHAs) and BHA. Both groups release fluid binding to the surface and reveal a smoother surface when applied. Often thousands of these cells will disappear at once after being removed.

Depending upon how strong the acid is, the results of the peel can be very superficial (like a daily cleanser) to quite deep (think of dermabrasion). Chemical peels are categorized as superficial, medium, or deep.

AHAs

AHAs or Alpha Hydroxy Acids are a group of natural acids found in foods. The most common AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid. AHAs can be found in a variety of cosmetic products, including facial cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and serums. Each AHA has unique benefits, so it’s important to select the right AHA for your specific skin type and concerns.

Benefits of using AHAs

AHAs are often used to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging. They can also help to diminish the appearance of acne scars and hyperpigmentation. In addition, AHAs can help to increase collagen production, resulting in firmer, more youthful-looking skin.

BHAs

BHA or Beta Hydroxy Acid is a group of synthetic acids. BHAs are found in a variety of cosmetic products, including facial cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and serums.

Benefits of using BHAs

While AHAs are used for anti-aging, BHAs are primarily used to treat different skin conditions, like acne. BHAs can help to unclog pores, reduce inflammation, and prevent the formation of acne. In addition, BHAs can help to fade the appearance of acne scars. Also, BHAs are famous for their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects that penetrate deeper into your skin.

PHAs

AHAs and BHAs are the most common acids used in skincare. However, there are PHAs, as well. Namely, PHAs or polyhydroxy acids are known as the “second generation of AHAs”. PHAs are different from AHAs since they are larger molecules and don’t penetrate as deep into the skin. Thus, they cause less irritation but still provide the same benefits as AHAs.

Benefits of using PHAs

PHAs have all the benefits of AHAs, but they are less irritating. PHAs can help to improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and other signs of aging. They can also help to diminish the appearance of acne scars and hyperpigmentation. In addition, PHAs can help to increase collagen production, resulting in firmer, more youthful-looking skin.

Acids in skincare and how to choose the right one

Glycolic acid

Glycolic acid is the smallest and most commonly used AHA. It’s derived from sugar cane, and it has the ability to penetrate deep into the skin. Glycolic acid can be found in a variety of products, including face wash, toners, moisturizers, and serums. The great thing about glycolic acid is that it is a great alternative for pregnant women who can’t use retinol.

Glycolic acid is known for:

  • Exfoliating dead skin cells
  • Evening skin tone
  • Minimizing pores
  • Fighting acne

Lactic acid

Lactic acid is derived from milk, and it’s the second most commonly used AHA. It’s larger in size than glycolic acid, so it doesn’t penetrate as deeply into the skin. Lactic acid can be found in a variety of products, including face wash, toners, moisturizers, and serums. It’s suitable for every skin type and it can be used daily.

Lactic acid is known for:

  • Gentle exfoliation
  • Hydration

Salicylic acid

If you bought acne treatment over the counter, you may know salicylic acid, the most famous BHA, is the most commonly used ingredient to reduce breakouts. Salicylic acid penetrates and dissolves the oil which clogs the pores but exfoliates away the dead skin cells. Besides avoiding irritation, it works effectively without irritation because it also has anti-inflammatory qualities. Salicylic acid is a great choice if you have acne-prone skin, but it can also be used to treat psoriasis and dandruff.

Salicylic acid is known for:

  • Fighting acne

Citric acid

Citric acid is derived from citrus fruits, and it’s the most commonly used AHA. Citric acid can be found in a variety of products, including face wash, toners, moisturizers, and serums. It is suitable for every skin type.

Citric acid is known for:

  • Antioxidant protection
  • Improving texture and appearance

Hyaluronic acid

When it comes to hyaluronic acid, it’s actually a sugar molecule that’s naturally found in the skin. It’s often used as an ingredient in serums and moisturizers because it holds 1000 times its weight in water, so it’s great for hydration.

Using hyaluronic acid in your everyday skincare is the first step towards achieving healthy and youthful skin. And you should definitely start using it ASAP because hyaluronic acid is a substance that can improve collagen production, skin thickness, and elasticity.

Hyaluronic acid is known for:

Kojic acid

Kojic acid is derived from mushrooms, and it’s a lesser-known AHA. If you have sensitive skin, you should be very careful with kojic acid since it’s known as a very potent acid. Kojic acid can be found in a variety of products, including face wash, toners, moisturizers, and serums, especially in brightening products.

Kojic acid is known for:

  • Lightening dark spots
  • Evening skin tone

Ferulic acid

Ferulic acid is derived from plants, and it’s a lesser-known AHA. If you are spending a lot of time outdoors and you are exposed to the sun, ferulic acid is a great ingredient for you because it has photoprotective qualities.

Ferulic acid is known for:

  • Brightening skin
  • Smoothing fine lines and wrinkles
  • Antioxidant protection

Malic acid

Malic acid is derived from apples, and it’s the third most commonly used AHA. Malic acid is larger in size than glycolic and lactic acid, so it doesn’t penetrate as deeply into the skin.

Malic acid is known for:

  • Gentle exfoliation
  • Hydration
  • Improving skin texture

Mandelic acid

Mandelic acid is another AHA that is usually used because of its anti-aging properties. It also helps with dryness and it’s known for its antioxidant properties.

Mandelic acid is known for:

  • Stimulating collagen production
  • Reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
  • Fading dark spots
  • Evening skin tone

Tartaric acid

Tartaric acid is another popular AHA. It’s derived from grapes, and it’s the fourth most commonly used AHA. Tartaric acid is larger in size than glycolic and lactic acid, so it doesn’t penetrate as deeply into the skin.

Tartaric acid is known for:

  • Exfoliating dead skin cells
  • Improving texture
  • Stabilizing skin pH

Gluconolactone

Gluconolactone is the most common PHA. It’s derived from corn, and it has anti-aging and antioxidant properties. Gluconolactone is gentle, so it’s often used in products for sensitive skin.

Gluconolactone is known for:

  • Stimulating collagen production
  • Fading dark spots
  • Evening skin tone
  • Antioxidant protection

 

Galactose

Galactose is another PHA. It’s derived from milk, and it has anti-inflammatory properties. Galactose is also gentle, so it’s often used in products for sensitive skin.

Galactose is known for:

  • Soothing irritated skin
  • Reducing redness (great for people with rosacea)
  • Hydrating dry skin

Azelaic acid

Azelaic acid is derived from beans, and it has antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties. Azelaic acid is gentle, so it’s often used in products for sensitive skin.

Acid is primarily used for skin cleansing and exfoliating. Even though acids are very beneficial for your skin, you should always be careful when using them.

Azelaic acid is known for:

  • Fading dark spots
  • Evening skin tone

Ellagic acid

Ellagic acid is derived from raspberries, and it has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, such as photoprotection, skin lightening, and anti-aging.

Ellagic acid is known for:

  • Brightening skin
  • Smoothing wrinkles
  • Protection against UV exposure

Additional tips for using acids in skincare

Acids are, as you can see, very beneficial for your skin, but you should always be careful when using them. Here are some additional tips for using acids in skincare:

Always use sunscreen: sunscreen is a must when using acids because they make your skin more sensitive to the sun.

Start slowly: if you are new to acids, start with a lower concentration and gradually increase it.

Patch test: always do a patch test before using a new product, especially if you have sensitive skin.

Choose the right product: make sure to choose a product that is suitable for your skin type.

Don’t mix: Most of the acids are can’t be used together, so make sure to read the instructions before using multiple products.

And if you have any questions or concerns, always consult a dermatologist before making any changes to your skincare routine.

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